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Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer

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Richard Harris21/06/2016 08:07:03
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

I managed to pick up a few bits and pieces from Weston Park for the TYPE II, those balsa bundle packs come in useful for making canopy moulds which I have made a start on, not completed yet but pretty much shaped. I will shrink a 3 litre cider bottle over this when finished in the usual way. 3mm cross grain balsa has been added to the bottom of the fuselage with soft balsa blocking added to the nose and front decking, I have started to attack this with the sanding block. The nose wheel will be sandwiched between a series of formers but at this stage the front is just tack glued into position. The boom is made from 6 x 13mm spruce at the rear 13mm tri section is glued with TE section on top to give the tail feathers the required dihedral. The tail boom will be removable so a FG mount was made which slides tightly up the spruce, this will be glued once I know its ultimate position.

Rich

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Richard Harris21/06/2016 22:57:19
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

The spats covering the wheels will be mounted via a couple of screws through brass brackets soldered onto the lower vertical legs. I thought I would share how I make up the brass brackets as it may come in handy one day?

I am a hoarder and in my collection of 'to be used one day' rubbish I have kept an immersion heater thermostat, purely as I thought the brass tube would be useful one day.

This is crushed between none gripped vice jaws then cut to the required length, each end is filed round and two holes are marked, centre punched and drilled to suit the screws to be used (2mm holes in my case).

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A centre line is marked on both sides, each long edge is then filed until they seperate making two identical brackets, all sharp edges are then removed.

Two lines 3mm to each side of the centre line are marked, each side is bent up at 90 degrees creating a U shape with a 6mm gap.

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A piece of 3mm /10swg piano wire is clamped in the vice jaws and the bracket is put onto it so the 6mm flat is central, each side is slowly pushe down until they are horizontal with the centre following the diameter of the wire.

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Jobs a good un!, these will be roughed up ready for soldering.

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Rich

Richard Harris26/06/2016 18:18:25
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

I had quite a productive morning and managed to pull the canopy over the balsa mold, it has turned out ok. Its base was built on top of the fuselage being tack glued, then sanded smooth with the fuselage before being removed. Its quite a decent sized canopy so it would be rude not to add a pilot and a touch of detail.

All of the tail feathers were cut out and dry assembled, these will be lightly sanded in readiness for film covering.

The brass brackets were soldered into position and the wheel spats were fabricated. Laminations of soft balsa sheet where used sandwiching the inner scalloped pieces until thick enough to clear the width of my chosen wheels.

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Two solid pieces of 6mm balsa are added to each side with a vee marked out to assist balsa removal for their final shape.

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Let in to each inner side is 3mm birch ply plates, simply for the mounting screws to bite into.

To finish off this mornings work I sheeted each side of the upper fuselage sides with 3mm balsa and started to make the mast. I couldn't resist piecing together all of components together to see how my efforts look like so far.

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Rich

Richard Harris28/06/2016 19:30:03
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

A few snaps of the mast. Built from a length of 6mm x 3mm spruce, the upper portion is shaped front and rear with balsa sheet.

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As I am using the blue plastic Hobby King C30 head I have had to thicken up the the top each side with 0.8mm Fibre glass sheet, so as not to create a sheer point each is angled opposing.

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Each side was then sheeted with 3mm balsa angling the lower edge to fit nicely on top of the fuselage.

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Though rain stopped play I did manage to carve a blue foam body, not great but it will do me. To this I will mount an action man head, maybe even treat him to some earphones.

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Rich

Graham L28/06/2016 23:29:58
30 forum posts
8 photos

Hi Rich

Boy you do build fast. All looking good. Mine is at the stage of your seventh picture at the moment. 2 questions, Firstly where are you putting your servos ? as you seem to have sheeted over the servo mountings . Secondly have you decided on a motor yet? Seems to need either a 2836 or a 3530 although the 35 may be a little on the heavy side ?

Hope all is well at home and you are getting some sleep !

Graham

Richard Harris30/06/2016 07:53:49
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

Graham,

Yes, she is settling in now mate, nothing wrong with her lungs mind crook. Regarding the servo arms, I just haven't cut out the slots as yet, I will try and do this later on and take some photos.

As for the power set up I will decide once I have an estimated AUW, hazarding a guess I would think around the 350-400watt range with the limiting factor being the prop diameter.

Rich

Graham L30/06/2016 17:23:03
30 forum posts
8 photos

Thanks Rich

I think I am leaning towards a DYS 3530 10 1400kv on 3 cells and a 9x4.7 APC slowfly prop. Should achieve about 350 watts on 3 cells ( 430 on 4) and is a reasonable weight compared with its peers at 74 grams. Is also short so will help with C of G . Am using one of these in the Scout on 3s and a 10x4.7 and this will be probably a similar weight model all up. It is very powerful and quite efficient & gives a reasonable run time on a 2200 3s. Link to motor and specs below

**LINK**

Cheers

Graham

Richard Harris02/07/2016 15:16:53
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

Sounds about right to me Graham.

Have made good progress the last few days, tail boom length has been decided with the strengtheners/tail skid being added.

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Pilot has been treated to some glasses and a head set, all made from foam,paper clips and head shrink tubing, he will do for me.

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Once mounted into position the canopy was attached.

I have been contemplating the colour scheme ending up with a union jack arced around the curvature of the fuselage lines. Not to everyones taste but I like how it has turned out.

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I have a good idea of what the AUW will be so a quick calculation and I can get on with the blades.

Rich

Richard Elliot02/07/2016 23:23:45
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180 forum posts
118 photos

That's a stunning colour scheme Rich, sets your model off a treat!!

Graham L03/07/2016 23:06:08
30 forum posts
8 photos

Great scheme Rich and it will show up well in the air. AQt the risk of being controversial a true Brexit scheme !

Good luck with the maiden. Where did you end up with boom length ?

Graham

Chris Dowell04/07/2016 05:49:11
94 forum posts
47 photos

Yes Rich...that is a great colour scheme...and I'm sure it was very simple to apply.face 22

Happy Landings

Chris...

Richard Harris04/07/2016 22:21:00
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

Cheers gents thumbs up

Due to the extra length needed on the blades I have added a second triangular plate to stop them drooping when stationary. Both plates are made from 0.8mm fibre glass sheet but the bottom plate is not connected to the blades.

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You can see that the mounting holes on the top plate are 3mm with the lower plate having clearance holes for the M3 nuts.

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img_9600.jpg Motor has been roughly mounted but this will need to be set up more accurately.

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We are getting there slowly

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Rich

Steve Jones 205/07/2016 08:45:26
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497 forum posts
369 photos

Coming together Rich well. On the head plate my Mantis runs a 1.5mm plate so i thought you might go with that as the weight of this might be more ?? Or does the thinner plate give a better characteristic ?

Could you take a pic of the underside of the body so we can see the stripes and how they wrap around and to the nose ?

Looking forward to seeing this go, any clues on blade sizes - length, width thickness etc?

Steve

Richard Harris05/07/2016 23:22:35
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

Steve,

I do prefer a more flexible plate, I think it is softer and kinder with ROG's.

Will try and take a photo tomorrow of the underside but there really is not a lot to see, rudder servo is in along with the closed loop rudder wires.

Blades have been made, balanced and covered ending up at 60mm wide x 540mm long and 6mm thick with the same profile I normally use. I have kept them a bit long as its likely I may shorten them as testing gets under way.

Bar for adding the receiver,esc, decals (which are on there way from Malcolm at Coolwind) and setting up the motor height and side thrust I am there. Just a case of waiting for the right weather then!

 

Rich

Edited By Richard Harris on 05/07/2016 23:23:09

Richard Harris06/07/2016 22:07:46
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

Managed to sneak out this evening up to the local park and test fly the new Revolver II, it flies very well but is a little pitch sensitive. I noticed quite a lot of cone angle which is the likely cause so I will add a little tip weight to each blade to reduce this unwanted cone.

I had 3 flights in all and I'm chuffed at the way it looks, a few teaks and it will be sorted.

Rich

Trevor06/07/2016 22:41:56
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349 forum posts
51 photos

Looking very good Rich, and congratulations on the successful first flying session. Do you have a view yet on how the Revolver would fare with the Panther blades?

Trevor

Graham L07/07/2016 21:19:38
30 forum posts
8 photos

Hi Rich

Glad the maiden went OK with only minor adjustment. Are you happy with the 540mm x 60mm blades or are you altering the length ? . Will try my usual head plate arrangement for this size rotor which is a 0.8mm and 0.5mm plate bolted together with the blade bolts Also use a 0.8mm round anti strike plate underneath which works well on my Mantis, Cooler and AC20 ( Steves version) . Hopefully this may help the pitch sensitivity.

Graham

Steve Jones 208/07/2016 20:45:05
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497 forum posts
369 photos

Getting there ..

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Steve

Richard Harris13/07/2016 21:46:40
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2026 forum posts
1852 photos

Trevor,

I will have to confirm once testing is completed but the blades are just a touch smaller than the Panther blades at the moment.

Steve,

Crumbs mate, you don't hang around! looks great smile d

Have received my decals from Malcolm at Coolwind which have been applied, looks like a Revolver now don't you think?

I have just started making a dummy engine for my new model, I will hopefully take some snaps of it in the next few days with a flight video if I am able too.

Here it is with its decals applied.

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Yes, my grass needs cutting!

Rich

Stephen Jones13/07/2016 21:55:59
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2628 forum posts
1500 photos

Looks the Biss, Richard thumbs up

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