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Dylan's Dawn Flyer (normal Size)

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Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 14:57:58
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I decided to do this from scratch rather than buy the laser cut and wood pack and follow the magazine build article without too much variance, hope it helps any of the new builders out there (veterans don't look too closely wink 2).

I started off by photocopying all the main components to be cut out with the intent of ironing the image onto the wood. For some reason this didn't work so I glued them on using a glue stick so the paper is removable once finished with.

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After rough cutting to singles I attacked the wood with a hand fret saw and a sanding block. I found the edges of the paper tended to roll over or tear so also pin pricked vital positions through the paper and into the wood below (just in case).

And after about 10/15 mins I had my first former finished

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So back to it and get the rest done.

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 17:58:19
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Well that was fairly easy and swift, now have a complete set of ply formers and 3 pairs of ply ribs as templates for the actual ribs, not bad for a couple of hours work.

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 20:44:21
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Ok fuz sides cut now as well, more bits in the morning and hopefully a full kit of parts will be ready by tomorrow afternoon.

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Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator18/10/2013 20:48:53
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Great start Dylan! thumbs up

BEB

PS I'll confess I'll probably get the laser cut CNC part pack - because I'm lazy!

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 18/10/2013 20:49:49

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 20:57:05
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

Cheers BEB, I wanted to do it this way as I won't have a choice with the 200% version, otherwise I probably would have gone that route as well.

Percy Verance18/10/2013 21:06:20
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8109 forum posts
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It's always nice to see a build.

May I offer a tip regarding those wing rib templates Dylan? Push a couple of drawing pins through them. One near the leading edge, the other as near to the trailing edge as you can. It makes them much easier to hold in position on a sheet of balsa when you cut round 'em......

One of our club members just built a Dawn Flyer. He's yet to fly it, but he's looking forward to it. He said he struggled a bit with the triangular section on the rear fus, but he got there in the end. Not a bad showing for an 84 year old I reckon......

Edited By Percy Verance on 18/10/2013 21:08:08

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 22:33:12
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1704 forum posts
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I shall be making a 10 rib balsa sandwich between the ply ribs, so all are the same

Johnny Kirkham18/10/2013 22:39:39
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Taking shape now Dylan....ill be watching with interest because i fancy a go myself

Johnny

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 22:46:26
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661 photos

To be fair after studying the plan and making the first few parts, I really don't see too much difficulty with this build at all, even for a complete novice builder, thats obviously all credit to an excellent design from Mr Todd, certainly makes a change from the 1/4 and 1/3 scale agro I seem to be having just lately lol

WolstonFlyer18/10/2013 22:48:49
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2104 forum posts
189 photos

Very nice!

Subscribing because I would like to build this model eventually - after the Tinker.

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 22:54:04
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

Does that make you a follower or a stalker? or even a spy for the competition? wink 2

WolstonFlyer18/10/2013 22:57:17
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2104 forum posts
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Definitely a follower smiley , it does look like you have a big head start on your build.

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services18/10/2013 23:13:00
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

Well grab a can and a seat, this could be a long journey wink 2

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator18/10/2013 23:18:59
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15748 forum posts
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Yes, I think the Dawn Flyer is a good choice for a first build - enough trad building to learn the basic skills but not so much as to be a bit daunting.

BEB

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services19/10/2013 16:16:19
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

Ok, after making all the fuz formers and rib blanks, I decided not to make the actual ribs just yet and make a start on fuz construction.

The first job is to position the motor on F1 (and F1a) since its easier now than when it fitted

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Next is to mark all the former positions from the plan to the fuz side

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F1 position is determined by your motor size and position, so measure this and make the appropriate adjustment to the marked former position on the fuz side.

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Then start gluing!, I tacked mine into position with thin cyno first then used super aliphatic down the joints to wick in. Always make sure formers are square!

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F1a and F1 are bonded with titebond II to each other after I positioned F1 on the fuz side.

I decided not to fit the 6mm longerons first before the formers, but will add them after the formers have dried, this is purely personal prefference.

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services19/10/2013 16:18:47
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661 photos

One thing I will be doing later is epoxying some triangle stock fore and aft of F1 for strength.

Percy Verance19/10/2013 16:30:36
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Ah yes, the sandwich method Dylan. I'd forgotten about that. Cheese and pickle for me.....

However it's done, I do like to see models being built. The Dawn Flyer is just that bit different too. I really like Lindsay's new biplane (Skywriter). I'm going to have a go at that one...... I've even gone and committed myself and bought a suitable motor. teeth

Edited By Percy Verance on 19/10/2013 16:35:15

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services20/10/2013 10:46:07
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

Ok first boob made, I measured and fitted F1/F1a to clear FC by 2mm and this doesn't allow for clearance of the trim on the front of the cowl, which ok the trim is purely cosmetic but I'd like to get this one right for this build blog, so will take a look shortly to see what can be done. Luckily I have epoxied in the triangular stock yet so should be an easy fix.

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services20/10/2013 12:18:41
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

Decided to leave the formers where they are and pack them up using some offcuts of ply to bring the motor forward, this is going to add a little weight to the nose, but that shouldn't be a bad thing.

I have reshaped FC former to accommodate my chosen motor, this is purely to clear the prop driver

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The fuz longerons are now in situ

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And the doublers are glued in place

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Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services20/10/2013 13:23:27
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

With the undercarraige bearers the build in the magazine recommends Hardwood blocks. I cheated a bit here since I don't have any suitable size stock and sandwiched several layers of 3mm ply together to give the depth needed. Once dry they will be shaped and glued into position.

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