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ne....1's... pushycat for 2013

the build etc...

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ken anderson.30/10/2013 15:25:01
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

right here we go for the build of the ne...1 pushycat--I was one of the original nominators....so I thought it was only right to join and post a few photo's.....

I've had 3 pushycat's and and I will pass on my experience with the model......first off for anyone who is thinking that a p/c will be a bit of a handful to fly-think the opposite.....it is very easy and has no nasty vice's.....I launch mine under arm and away it go's -straight and level.....and the stall is a none event...so you know that the landing is just a case of lining up and letting the model sink...and giving it a gentle flair....so to the build......

check out the photo's-what you see took me 1 hour today.....it was a case of laying the 1/4(6mm) sheet over the plan-marking for cutting and then joining with S/glue....I also marked the lines for planning and sanding the airfoil section...

the two boom's were done by laying some 'grease proof paper' on top of the plan and tracing over the parts and then going over the tracing again on top of the sheet...and then cutting out......

pc401.jpg

pc402.jpg

pc403.jpg

pc405.jpg

pc406.jpg

pc408.jpg

pc410.jpg

 

 

poundland S/glue and knives,clingfilm and grease proof paper,and off we go.........I read a couple of posts by people saying it might be a hard build for them......or tricky to fly........please think the opposite...as it is dead simple/cheap to build and easy to fly......the only one's iv'e seen that are a bit iffy are the over powered one's.........just think if ne...1 can build and fly one...anybody can.......thumbs up ...

 

above was two sheets of 6mm and part of a 3/16 sheet....

 

 

ken Anderson ...ne....1 construction dept.....

 

 

 

Edited By ken anderson. on 30/10/2013 15:39:49

Bob Cotsford30/10/2013 15:34:49
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7880 forum posts
433 photos

Ken, is it worth using a hard (1/8 sq spruce) leading edge for ding-proofing?

ken anderson.30/10/2013 15:38:15
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

hello bob-the three that I've made have all been as per plan with small mod's...I wouldn't bother with a H/Wood leading edge.......the wings normally are unmarked if the model go's the journey......with it been light etc..

ken Anderson...ne..1.......mod's dept.

Bob Cotsford30/10/2013 15:42:49
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7880 forum posts
433 photos

ok, that's good enough for meyes

Tony Bennett30/10/2013 17:02:14
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5074 forum posts
129 photos

might do one of these after the barnstormer.

ken anderson.30/10/2013 17:26:48
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

and a couple more photo's of the completed boom's..the hard wood to the bottom is glued using S/glue and then sanded and the tailplane is a bit of 1/8 sheet.......notice the visitor from hubsan watching...

pc42.jpg

pc41.jpg

ken Anderson....ne...1 pushycat/hubsan dept.

brfc730/10/2013 18:13:08
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400 forum posts
140 photos

All these threads building PC's are defo making me think I should just get on and build one

baz

GrahamC30/10/2013 20:17:57
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1229 forum posts
196 photos

Indeed you should baz...!

Looking very familiar Ken!

brfc730/10/2013 20:44:02
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400 forum posts
140 photos

Well I've made a start, If you count using some greaseproof paper to draw around the tail boom and writing out a shopping list of what I need to get from the model shop yes

Was trying to work out if it would be easier and would also only be one glue line if I used 6" wide balsa for the wing instead of 4". But it works out you would still need to buy 2 lengths at 36"costing £9.20 instead of £5 for 4"

baz

ken anderson.31/10/2013 16:57:58
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

some more photo's...took me about 2 hours to do these bits......I've made F4 a bit wider(take note) as in the past if you need to change the motor-you are limited to around about 28mm dia casings.....I don't mount the motor on to F4...I use a firewall in side the fus.......and drill a hole in F4 for the prop shaft to stick out of......I use outrunners and don't want the motor rubbing on the fuz.......once again the parts were copied using 'grease proof' paper and then transferred on to the balsa............notice my helper..........pussy cat- watching a pushycat ... teeth 2 ...

 

pc4x1.jpg

pc4x2.jpg

pc4x3.jpg

pc4x4.jpg

pc4x5.jpg

pc4x6.jpg

nothing hard about the bit's-----don't worry too much if anything is slightly off....a bit of glue and sandpaper will sort things out.......its a sports model-not a comp entry.......any question's -fire away and ask.......me

 

ken Anderson....ne....1.....pushycat dept......

 

ps---forgot to mention--F3 shows a couple of holes in the sides for the wires from the esc----I've never bothered with them-too much hassle to do them......

 

Edited By ken anderson. on 31/10/2013 17:03:43

Bob Cotsford31/10/2013 20:16:51
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7880 forum posts
433 photos
Posted by ken anderson. on 31/10/2013 16:57:58:.....any question's -fire away and ask.......me

ok you asked for it, not sure you can help though - what are Traplet's playing at - WHERE'S MY PLAN?

So pushy pussycat supervises PushyCat construction which promises to be a real pussy-cat - what?

ken anderson.01/11/2013 15:01:32
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

some more photo's from ne...1 PC build.......the ply doublers were coated with white glue(pva)///positioned on to the fuz sides and then tacked around the edge's with S/G.....the formers were marked and out in position-and glued with 5 min epoxy....and finally F1 and F4 were fitted using the poundland clamps to keep everything in place until the epoxy had gone off........everything was eyeballed using the marked out squares on the cutting mat.....basically sound...don't forget this is just the skeleton for the model-to hold all the flying equipment....when we are heading for mach 1+/not....also a bit of product placement in the photo's and my dear helper 'blackie' ...

pc4a1.jpg

pc4a2.jpg

pc4a3.jpg

pc4a4.jpg

pc4a5.jpg

 

really simple build...hope bob has got his plan today...

 

ken Anderson ne....1......pushycat dept...

Edited By ken anderson. on 01/11/2013 15:02:59

ken anderson.01/11/2013 15:54:22
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

and some more-the last for today-for tonight i'm going ashore(out) to socialise etc.......so to the wings...I lay the panel on a flat surface and ran the david's plane along the top(leading edge) a 1/2 dozen times and then the trailing edge the same.....checked the profile and gave it a couple of more shave's...then smoothed the panel down to an acceptable finish and that was that...it's now ready for the torque rod installation and the aileron..construction......the planing and sanding took all of aprox 20 min's max......

pc4b1.jpg

pc4b2.jpg

pc4b3.jpg

pc4b4.jpg

pc4b5.jpg

the last one a before and after......hope these photo's are some benefit to someone out there in forum land..?

ken Anderson ne..1......pushycat dept..

IanR01/11/2013 19:45:45
775 forum posts
4 photos

Yes, your photos are indeed of some benefit. Many thanks. Keep 'em coming.

Ian

ken anderson.02/11/2013 09:15:30
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

thread suspended-due to domestic duties and DIY project......normal service/build asap...teeth 2 ...late sat/sunday

ken Anderson ne..1........pushycat dept....

WolstonFlyer02/11/2013 09:19:07
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2104 forum posts
189 photos
The pictures are very helpful, many thanks
ken anderson.02/11/2013 17:29:03
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

here we go---how to install the aileron torque rod(ne..1.)style.....tried and tested....i'm going for the aileron servo(1) in the fuz as this is the method I've done on previous pc's-and it works...it may seem..hard/awkward and a bit of a fiddle....but it took me 30 min's to do the one in the photo......so lay the wing on the plan...line it up with the drawing and transfer the aileron dimensions on to the wing...and run the top line to the center -this is for the torque rod...cut out the aileron from the wing...mark a center line on the aileron and plane an angle on the face for when the time comes to do the hinge.. .on the bit for the torque rod...mark a line underneath about 6mm wide..and cut/scoop out enough balsa to accommodate the torque rod......enough for it to move and to allow you to put on a cap piece of 1/16 balsa...use whatever...file, rolled up sandpaper to get the dimension's(sounds hard)but it isn't....now get the torque rod(I used radio active one's) from the LMS......put in the bend for the rod to go in to the aileron and cut off the excess...I left about 1/2 in to go in to the wood......use a drill bit of suitable dia and turn it by hand enough to get the depth ect......ok now put the torgue rod in to the wing...and cap the lot off with the 1/16 balsa.....run some S/G down one side of the wood-just enough to do the job and then do the same with the other side......if you've not gone daft with the glue the aileron should move -no prob's.......and that's it apart from a bit of sanding to tidy the cover up........the final sanding will be done before the big cover up.......have fun and let me know if this is all making sense..........

pc4e1.jpg

pc4e2.jpg

pc4e3.jpg

pc4e4.jpg

pc4e5.jpg

pc4e6.jpg

pc4e7.jpg

pc4e8.jpg

pc4e9.jpg

so there we go -just like that....tommy cooper.....next we'll install the hinge's...

ken Anderson ne...1 ...pushycat dept.....

Tony Bennett02/11/2013 17:36:26
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5074 forum posts
129 photos

marvelous as rimmer would say.

ken anderson.03/11/2013 09:58:10
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

to hinge P/C aileron......ne...1 style........we need some 'mylar' hinge material cut in to 1/2" strip's(3 no) cut off the pointed corners(make's it easer to go in the slot...)...mark three points on the trailing edge and cut the slots slightly over size and give the mylar hinges a trial fit-you may need to deepen/widen the slots....when you are happy offer up the aileron and mark where the hinges are going to go on them and do the same with that(don't worry if the knife come out the side crook.....) it happens-but no big deal......when you're happy with the slots and everything fits together nicely...remover the hinge's and roughen the up with the point of your knife....put a drop of cyno on one side and slide them back in to the wing slots...half way in...pinch the wing on the outside for a couple of seconds and that should be the hinge fixed........when all three are done-then offer up the aileron and just let the hinges..enter the slots on it-put a drop of cyno on all three hinge's and shove the aileron home to its final position(not too much S/G reqd) or the hinge will be stuck before it gets positioned correctly...and then you have the job of starting all over....ugh...and finally when its done and you are happy-run a bit of sandpaper or knife bladfe up each side-if the aileron is a bit tight/stiff....when the model is ready for covering we will be concealing the hinge etc.....do the other side...and then we'll be ready to join both panels together.....thumbs up

pc4f1.jpg

pc4f2.jpg

pc4f3.jpg

pc4f5.jpg

pc4f7.jpg

hope the notes and photo's explain explain everything...again it took about 1/2 hour to do the hinge....

 

ken Anderson ne..1.......pushycat dept.

PS.... forgot to mention -that all the sanding/fitting of aileron's is a good pre-flight test for the wing panels that you joined together -if you hear any 'creaks'......have a look and put some cyno in the joint......that's complaining ...   teeth 2

Edited By ken anderson. on 03/11/2013 10:03:44

ken anderson.03/11/2013 10:10:53
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8417 forum posts
772 photos

a photo of the fully closed wing/aileron joint on my current pushy cat.....this is the mylar hinge and the covering over it-give's a gap less hinge etc.....

pc4z1.jpg

ken Anderson ne..1 ..pushy cat dept..........

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