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Supra Fly 45

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Steve Dunning31/12/2013 17:23:53
324 forum posts
186 photos

I acquired a partial kit of this model a few weeks ago, no cowl or hardware. As these are no longer available I thought I would try and emulate it with my own construction techniques. Pictures show initial fuselage construction with a slot together build and self jigging fuselage. Will add to as progress is made.

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Basic fuselage parts, CNC cut with a balsa ply doubler as an experiment.

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Doublers added to sides.

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Trial fit of formers to sides.

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Sides brought together and top alignment deck can also be seen.

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Top view with a clear view of top alignment jig/crutch.

Steve Dunning03/01/2014 20:06:37
324 forum posts
186 photos

Decks have been cut, skinned and added to the fuselage. Facings added to cockpit area.

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Steve Dunning07/01/2014 17:07:44
324 forum posts
186 photos

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Wings cut, skinned in balsa and edged front and back. Planned to section.

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Servo boxes, cnc cut, assembled and cyano'ed. Weight is 10gns complete.

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Servo boxes installed and lead out tunnel capped.

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Plug halves for cowl waiting sanding after filling.

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Wing tip sanded to shape, a trial for producing vac formed wing tips!

Andrew76707/01/2014 17:14:20
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809 forum posts
4 photos

Watching with interest Steve.

Andrew

Paul Marsh07/01/2014 17:56:31
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3727 forum posts
1057 photos

EZ used to make a SupraFly. I have one,but EZ kits were very expensive. Think it was around £300 at the time, but I bought it from SWM, with the engine, servos except rx for £70 in the 90's.

Steve Dunning07/01/2014 18:19:06
324 forum posts
186 photos

You are quite right Paul, the 45 size retailed at $399 so would be around £300. Those that have had a Supra Fly all report excellent flying characteristics and I hope mine performs as well as they have been reported to. Will keep the updates coming as work progresses.

john stones 107/01/2014 19:07:10
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10710 forum posts
1480 photos

looks good Steve smiley

sure your finish will be of the usual high standard wink

Steve Dunning07/01/2014 19:55:37
324 forum posts
186 photos

Will try my best John!

minty morton08/01/2014 07:53:24
101 forum posts
2 photos

Looks like another one to put on my list Steve.

Martyn K12/01/2014 13:49:14
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4981 forum posts
3624 photos
Looking really good.

Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh.

Martyn
Martyn K13/01/2014 09:26:37
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4981 forum posts
3624 photos
Posted by minty morton on 08/01/2014 07:53:24:

Looks like another one to put on my list Steve.

Minty, please can you contact me (m@czd.org.uk) or pm me. I need to get some details off you for the UKCAA

Thanks

Martyn

Steve Dunning14/01/2014 17:10:23
324 forum posts
186 photos

Undercarriage blocks installed for fixed U/C.

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Glass tape added to centre prior to applying resin.

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Glass is applied in one piece, tacking at the T/E using thin cyano enables tape to be tightly pulled round the L/E and again tacked on the opposite side of the T/E. This allows the epoxy to be applied to both sides at once, saving waiting time for the second side.

img_1357.jpg

Martyn K14/01/2014 18:04:53
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4981 forum posts
3624 photos

Glass is applied in one piece, tacking at the T/E using thin cyano enables tape to be tightly pulled round the L/E and again tacked on the opposite side of the T/E. This allows the epoxy to be applied to both sides at once, saving waiting time for the second side.

Nice tip... thanks

Martyn

Steve Dunning15/01/2014 17:05:50
324 forum posts
186 photos

After a rub on the glass cloth with 120 to get rid of the lumps and bumps, lightweight filler is smoothed onto the edges so as to disguise the edges under the covering.

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Tail-plane blank is 8mm foam sheet, cut on machine and faced with 1.5mm balsa applied on the vacuum bed.

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Tail-plane edged front and back with 6mm balsa and 20mm balsa tips.

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Steve Dunning23/01/2014 21:00:17
324 forum posts
186 photos

Cowl plug installed in the parting board framework, several coats of wax applied ready to start laying up the first half of the mould.img_1361.jpg

Moulds ready for the vacuum formed wing tips and underbelly.

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Martyn K24/01/2014 10:09:14
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4981 forum posts
3624 photos

Hi Steve

What have you made the cowl plug out of?

Are you going to do a step by step guide to creating the mould then creating a split cowl? That would be very useful!

Martyn

Edited By Martyn K on 24/01/2014 10:11:51

Steve Dunning24/01/2014 10:28:05
324 forum posts
186 photos

Hi Martyn

An earlier photo shows the start of the plug construction, using a lite ply framework for the shape and balsa blocks for the shape. Carving and sanding produce the basic shape and epoxy plus micro balloons then lightweight fine filler for final filling. Note that the cowl is in one piece, i.e. whole, hence the need to use a parting plate.

Usual finishing, sanding sealer, three coats, primer, paint then 2 pack clear to give a gloss and seal the surface.

Leave to harden then 1200 grit wet and dry removes any bumps then 'T' Cut to polish.

The frame is contiboard with a recess cut in that is the shape of the centre of the cowl. A couple of screws hold the rear of the cowl with balsa wedges elsewhere. The small gap between the cowl and board is filled with beeswax and levelled off.

5 coats of release wax are applied, allowing to dry between coats (20-30 minutes). It's then ready to have gel coat and fabric build up. I'll post photos of each stage from now.

Hope that helps

Steve

Edited By Steve Dunning on 24/01/2014 10:30:11

Martyn K24/01/2014 10:32:34
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4981 forum posts
3624 photos

Thanks Steve

Yes - just looked back and spotted the cowl photos above. It looked so different in black..

And thanks for the potential photo guide. Its all helpful stuff.

Martyn

Steve Dunning25/01/2014 21:07:03
324 forum posts
186 photos

Just so people understand the parting plate concept.

img_1363.jpg

Gel coat applied to the plug and surround.

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After gel coat has partially cured, the edges have had resin and micro-balloons applied to smooth out the corners as the cloth will not go right into a tight corner. Note that this has also been used around the spinner area for the same reason.

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First couple of layers of cloth applied. This has to be built up to at least 3-4 times the thickness of the final intended artefact.

img_1367.jpg

karl grey26/01/2014 13:43:42
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100 forum posts
12 photos

Looking good there Steve, following closelyyes

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