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Bistormer 60" (A Barnstormer with more ribs)

Barnstormer with more ribs

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Danny Fenton12/02/2014 23:05:33
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9104 forum posts
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Joined the two fus sides, Probably would have been wise to have added the cabane blocks to F4 and F5 before doing this, but I didn't realise until it was drying ah well...... kind of building ad-hoc here wink 2

bs 101.jpg

the two sides are held in allignment by the balsa blocks pinned accurately to the fuselage outline. and into the building board. I have deliberately not included the curved upper section of F3 so that the fus could be layed on the board upside down to aid allignment. I would normally place heavy weights across the top of the fus, but in this instance there is no need, the fuselage is perfectly true and it is not springing up anywhere. Also the sides would normally have set squares to make sure they are upright. Again no need as I made the bulkheads from my own tracings and used a set square. They are true.

When viewed from above the bulkheads are on the lines perfectly. The clamps you see are to take out any warp in the lite ply bulkheads. Those of you that have used lite ply will know it only stays flat for a nanosecond after its manufactured, and if you have built a recent Flair Scout will know how much fun holding the lite ply ribs straight is crook

Next task is the cabane blocks will need epoxying in, a servo tray, and wing bolt anchor plate needs fettling and fitting.

There are thick balsa doublers to go on the outside of the fuselage in the area of the lower wing seat. That's straightforward as the fuselage is flat in this area.

More interesting will be the thick blocks to be added to either side of the front section. If I add them before bending the fuselage front together it might take some effort, if I add them after bending the front then it could be difficult to keep the fus alligned. Any Barnstormer boys looking in, did you add the doublers before or after bending the fus together at the front?

Cheers

Danny

Nigel Day13/02/2014 08:38:38
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1158 forum posts
213 photos

Did you read any of the earlier B'stormer blogs Danny?

Phil W (at least) showed/mentioned adding the cabane blocks before joining the fuse sides. There were lots of handy tips and guides shown there. Well, they were (will be) useful to me anyway.....

Danny Fenton13/02/2014 08:41:53
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

Hi Nigel, I did/do follow them, them but ther are so many that bit must not have registered wink 2 I will go and take a look. Its not an issue, I was just curious.

Cheers

Danny

Nigel Day13/02/2014 08:46:20
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1158 forum posts
213 photos

Ooh, if stuff like that passes you by at your age, I hate to think what'll happen when you reach mine!smiley

Danny Fenton13/02/2014 15:14:53
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

In your pic your hair is much darker than mine, so I don't think its an age thing Nigel wink 2

Mmmm been back and looked at Phils and he did his fus in two halves, a front and a rear. And he added the cheeks after bending the fus. As he has no lower wing he also has no lower wing seat doublers.

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton13/02/2014 22:53:54
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

Glued the cabane mounting blocks to F3 and F4. I didn't have any stock that big so laminated some smaller blocks with epoxy.

bs 102.jpg

bs 103.jpg

bs 104.jpg

You can see that the angle at which the bulkheads are fixed sets the angle of the cabanes, so you must try and be accurate here.

bs 105.jpg

I also made up the structure that transfers the undercarriage loads and the forward wing mounting into the fus sides. I will add a good quality marine ply floor across this opening and screw the Dural undercart to it.

There is hardwood strip behind the wing dowel plate to spread the gluing surface. There will be more lengthways across the bottom, and the bottom of F3. I do not want the undercarriage going anywahere, as anywhere is up through the lower wing!!

Cheers

Danny

Danny Fenton14/02/2014 00:00:48
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

Final bit for this evening was adding the servo rails. These 5010 servos are cheap as chips and have proved very reliable for me in the everyday models. wink 2

bs 106.jpg

bs 107.jpg

The rails are epoxied into balsa blocks notched and attached to the sides of the fus. You have to be careful to clear F6 which runs across the fus later in the build.....

Cheers

Danny

 

 

Edited By Danny Fenton on 14/02/2014 00:02:18

Colin Leighfield14/02/2014 00:06:21
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

I used to think this was a simple build. About time I learned that there ain't no such thing!

Danny Fenton14/02/2014 00:08:29
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

I think it is Colin, it's just I only get half hour chunks of time sad Somebody like yourself would have it knocked together in a few hours wink 2 I am making a bit of a meal of it disgust

Cheers

Danny

Nigel Day14/02/2014 07:51:04
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1158 forum posts
213 photos

And 75% of that half hour is spent taking pictures and writing the explanation for people like me.smiley

You'd be up to Tony B's performance levels if you were just building Danny.

jolliffee14/02/2014 08:39:56
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123 forum posts
16 photos

Hi Danny. Please keep on detailing the build it is a great help, especially when you are an old un like mewink

Thanks David

Danny Fenton14/02/2014 08:44:15
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

I enjoy doing the blogs, and the camera is always by the bench so it is no bother really.

I hope you are getting something from the blog even though with the fus it is straying a little bit from the plan.

Cheers

Danny

Colin Leighfield14/02/2014 10:13:43
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

It would take me ages, sadly. I am still way behind with the (probably too many) things that I try and fit into the day. Not having fully retired when I should didn't help (this is me pinching minutes in the office right now)!

I want to do another of the mass build models, but there are three things I must finish first and another one is forming in my head now. The most enjoyable conversation I had with you and Chris B. touched on the issue of sharply tapered wings and wash-out, thoughts on that subject will reflect in this one if it comes to fruition.

Last night and early this morning were devoted to getting the long and highly tapered (beautiful in my eyes)! spinner on the Seafang to run true, it's still not quite right. Things aren't helped either because from next Tuesday I will be abroad for three weeks, for the right reasons, (holiday) but it does mess up the building programme and riding my motorbike.

However, the Bi-Stormer is a possibility.

Danny Fenton14/02/2014 19:24:38
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

No doubt you are looking forward to getting away from this bizarre weather though Colin?

A little more progress...

bs 107.jpg

The front side cheeks have been added

bs 108.jpg

The front bulkhead was epoxied in and the sides pulled together

bs 109.jpg

I finished edging the undercarriage box and added re-inforcing blocks to the inside of the undercarriage plate, these are to take the undercarriage screws.

bs 110.jpg

here tis in position. If you were banding the undercarriage on it wouldn't need so much work

bs 111.jpg

The fuselage rear was drawn together and the strip sections added.

I mark the centre of each section and build over a straight line using engineers squares to keep everything alligned.

I added some v soft 1/8 sheet infill at the rear underside of the fus, under the tailplane. Nothing is shown on the plan

bs 112.jpg

Cheers

Danny

Colin Leighfield14/02/2014 20:07:45
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5952 forum posts
2492 photos

I can't deny it, Miami, 12 days in the Caribbean on the coral Princess, Fort Lauderdale to collect a car and the last week down the Florida Keys. The last rime I drove down there I went past Homestead USAF base and the gate guardian was a Bomarc Intermediate Range (air breathing) cruise missile. I'll see if it's still there!

By the time I get back you'll have this one finished, I reckon..

Danny Fenton15/02/2014 14:36:40
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

Added the top doubler, this the notes says ends at F8 but there is nothing on the plan to say how it ends.

bs 113.jpg

bs 114.jpg

I will build around this bit and see if Davids intentions become clear. I can blend it in but it would be nice to know what the great Boddo had in mind here...

While we are diiscussing the plan, I have found what appears to be a really bad weak spot in the design, and I will have to do something about it I am afraid.

The lower wing seat and its doubler extend back behind the bulkhead F5 by about an inch, this means that at the top of the fus you are bending a 3/16 x 3/16 longeron at the bottom it is nearly half inch thick balsa sheet, the bend is not going to happen equally, in fact it puts a real strain on the longeron where it attaches to the double 3/16 laminate thumbs down

bs 116.jpg

Cheers

Danny

kc15/02/2014 16:38:48
6032 forum posts
168 photos
It says so on the website the instructions are from the kit days so the kit may have had shaped (chamfered) or kerfed parts provided. Just a guess.

When you have sorted out the ideal constrution perhaps you could put it all in print here.
Although this is the most exemplary & informative build blog I have to say I cannot quite follow what you have done on this section, so i reckon there are others in the dark too. Doublers are often very confusing and I usually interpret them by looking at the notches in formers. My view is that perhaps the inner layer stops short of the bulkhead while just the outer layer rests in the notch in the former. Thereby easing the bend or transition. A sketch of each layer might enlighten more.

Edited By kc on 15/02/2014 16:41:27

Edited By kc on 15/02/2014 16:49:05

Danny Fenton15/02/2014 16:54:58
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9104 forum posts
3945 photos

Hi KC, on the plan you get one sectional drawing at F3 and that's it! So it is difficult to interpret what's supposed to happen in a completely different section of the drawing eg F8 sad

bs 117.jpg

I will give my interpretation rather than go off and do my own thing, I think that would be more helpful in this instance, don't worry I will try and show what's going on. If it looks like I have interpreted something wrong then please let me know?

I have added the upped formers, I have had to add the top to F3 as I left it off so that I could assemble the fus upside down on the board.

I have added another former, F3a this will give me a bit more structure to curve the sheet on to.

I have interpreted that the area around and in front of the cockpits do not have stringers, but the area back from F8 does......

bs 118.jpg

Cheers

Danny

kc15/02/2014 17:05:09
6032 forum posts
168 photos
Danny. I added to my post just as you replied, did you see what I meant about inner doubler stopping short of former?
Chris Bott - Moderator15/02/2014 17:31:50
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Does this shot help with fus construction?

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 15/02/2014 17:32:44

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