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Flair Junior 60

Do I need to mod wing profile?

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Gary Murphy 105/08/2014 12:54:22
406 forum posts
14 photos
I am somewhat new to the hobby and wanted to build something bigger that I can also fly.i have just bought a Flair junior 60 on ebay from a guy who turned out to be very local for a good price and to me all parts seem present.i did a quick searce for build tips etc and straight away found mdntion that the model is not perfect for rc control and changing the wing profile and/or raising tail surface.really dont know what to do here.just build as is for practice or go with mods.i would like to find out how to mod for bolts rather than banded winds for sure,and the usual ic or elec,ghat mod might be beyond my skill set.i know the new kits are elec from the box if needed but this d flair kit was agood price.any tips would be great
Mike Etheridge 105/08/2014 13:16:00
1538 forum posts
429 photos


I built a 1955 Keil Kraft Junior 60 (See other posts) which matches the Flair Junior 60. As mentioned elsewhere I flew it first on Epsom Downs without the radio switched on and it quite happily flew away on it's own as a 'free-flighter''. The plane will fly quite happily without any modifications as long as the centre of gravity is in the right place. I would get the help of an experienced flier to 'maiden' the plane for you.


Hangar 9 nut05/08/2014 15:12:34
243 forum posts
25 photos

Gary the plane was designed as a free flight model so on power it will climb due to wing incidence so couple of degrees of down thrust and 1/16 balsa sheet under leading edge of tailplane and you are in the ball park I fly mine with OS 40 fourstroke its great !

Mowerman05/08/2014 16:54:05
1548 forum posts
105 photos

Refer to Peter Lowe's article in Sept RCM&E.

Braddock, VC05/08/2014 17:16:36
1645 forum posts
82 photos

The flair j60 is perfect to learn to fly on, if you don't overpower it all those nasty tendencies will not be so marked.

I've built several and the best flying one had an OS 26 FS though one with an OS 20 FP or an Irvine 20 is almost as good but slightly louder, though the irvine has quite a lot of power compared to the other two.

In my opinion, the flair kit is superior to the ben buckle one also better than the KK original which I built in the mid 50s which was powered by an ED racer, a 2.5 cc diesel with much less power than any of the three I mention above and that engine pulled the plane complete with a galloping ghost system on board which must have made it as heavy as the modern versions.

Just ensure you don't build warps into the wing and make damn good joints for the wing joining woodwork.

Gary Murphy 105/08/2014 19:38:20
406 forum posts
14 photos

H9n, when you suggest 1/16 sheet under LE of tailplane,so its tipped backwards? not evenly raised? Also if that's a permanent fix should I do this in the build or is it trail and error for amount?

PatMc05/08/2014 20:04:22
4326 forum posts
524 photos

Gary, it just needs some the elevator set with a small amount of down trim or you could simply use the throttle if it climbs too steeply.

Here's the blog I did of mine when it was refurbed in 20012/13.

PS I've added a drawing to my album that shows the mods I did, including incorporating bolt on wings, when I built my Flair Jnr 60 around 1986 but I'm having problems posting it here.

IMO securing the wings with screws cures the problem that can cause them to fold in high G situations. 

Edited By PatMc on 05/08/2014 20:42:12

PatMc05/08/2014 20:55:35
4326 forum posts
524 photos

Here's the drawing mentioned above. It's fairly cluttered because it was done for my own use before I started building the model also apart from the method of wing fixing it also shows a number of other mods including removable tail, pull-pull controls, inverted motor & provision to fit floats.


Gary Murphy 106/08/2014 11:27:17
406 forum posts
14 photos

This might be a really stupid question,i have read that adding a inch to the nose is a great help.Its not till I had the plan out I realised this is not as easy as I longerons to add length to, then the nose section. being that all the nose parts are cut ready are these used or are new parts needed to be cut?

PatMc06/08/2014 11:53:57
4326 forum posts
524 photos

There's no need to lengthen the nose. Original I added some weight to the motor plate (see drawing) but over a few trial flights I gradualy reduced the amount until it was only about 2 or 3 oz at the same time I trimmed with some down elevator to compensate for the rearward cg. Again as shown in the drawing the cg ended about 1.3" behind that shown on the plan. This had the added benifits of improving the glide & reducing the nose pitching up when power is increased.
If you look at my refurb thread you'll see that when I converted to electric I installed the esc & battery is as far forward as I could get them, also the motor is heavier & more powerful than necessary. The result is that the cg is where I had it with ic without any nose weight & the same small amount of down elevator is permanently fixed.

Hangar 9 nut06/08/2014 19:00:06
243 forum posts
25 photos

Gary its all a bit trial and error so if you use lead,down thrust or lift leading edge of tailplane try not to fix it until you have found the right combination!

On mine I needed such a lot of down elevator I found another way so elevator could be set at neutral.

Edited By Hangar 9 nut on 06/08/2014 19:01:56

PatMc06/08/2014 19:46:50
4326 forum posts
524 photos

Why mess about with the old free flight method of shimming the tailplane ? It's an RC model - just use the elevator to finalise the trim, it doesn't matter if it is permanently set off neutral.

Hangar 9 nut06/08/2014 19:54:28
243 forum posts
25 photos

Each to their own Pat !

Phil Green08/08/2014 12:01:14
1555 forum posts
315 photos

The J60 makes a great introduction to R/C!
I dont think any mods are really necessary as long as you dont overpower it, 200w is ample.


Edited By Phil Green on 08/08/2014 14:30:28

ken anderson.08/08/2014 15:00:06
8557 forum posts
776 photos

gary-here is mine(Flair) built as per plan---no changes made apart from a single wing's around on tickover.....all you could want..

ken Anderson ne..1 JNR 60 dept.

gangster08/08/2014 20:06:33
999 forum posts
17 photos

Hi personally I would build as per plan. It's not a pilot racer so work on the principle that if it flares when you give it throttle you are overpowering it. Mine is built from the Ben Buclkle kit once aloft throttle right back and it is so lovely to fly. Even in strong wind. I have programmed in a throttle elevator mix so as the throttle is advanced a little down elevator is added. For level flight I have got a few degrees of down elevator. I have added a couple of ounces of lead to the nose. If electrc powered make sure the battery goes as far forward as possible which is easiest done with an open fronted battery box in the nose. Beautiful model to fly but please don't try to fly it fast. It will float forever just on tick over mine is electric powered but I wonder what the electric term for tick over is?

HughMcQ26/01/2015 18:03:38
12 forum posts

I've plenty of years experience with many types of models, but have never tried a "vintage" R/C type like the Junior 60 - I have a lovely PAW 35 diesel R/C engine available, would this be too much for Junior 60?

ken anderson.26/01/2015 18:06:06
8557 forum posts
776 photos

hello Hugh- I would say your motor will be more than ample...but messy.......poor girl - she'll be covered in oil....

ken JNR 60 preservation dept.

cymaz26/01/2015 22:39:13
9043 forum posts
1190 photos

I had a junior 60 for several years. Powered by a SC 30fs. I packed up the rear of the wing by over 1/4 inch, that stopped her heading for the moon!

Pit met its demise after clapping wings high up...should have renamed it Icarus.

GONZO26/01/2015 23:05:05
1353 forum posts
14 photos

Re lengthening the nose - the Flair J60 already has this feature and several other changes to make it more suitable for RC. Build as the plan with a low power 25 TS or 26/30 FS


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